Term |
Description |
Water depth |
Distance between the seabed and the still-water level. |
Water level |
Elevation of still-water level relative to some datum. |
Wave caustic |
Point or line along which wave energy is focused by refraction. |
Wave climate |
The seasonable and annual distribution of wave height, period and direction. |
Wave direction |
Mean direction of wave energy propagation relative to true north. |
Wave directional spectrum |
Distribution of wave energy as a function of wave frequency and direction. |
Wave frequency |
The inverse of wave period. |
Wave frequency spectrum |
Distribution of wave energy as a function of frequency. |
Wave Height |
The vertical distance between a wave crest and the next trough. |
Wave Length |
The distance between consecutive wave crests or wave troughs. |
Wave Period |
The time taken for consecutive wave crests or wave troughs to pass a given point. |
Wave Power |
The rate at which wave energy is transmitted in the direction of wave propagation. Normally expressed in kilowatts per metre of wave crest length. |
Wave rose |
Diagram showing the long-term distribution of wave height and direction. |
Wave Runup |
The vertical distance above mean water level reached by the uprush of water from waves across a beach or up a structure. |
Wave Setup |
The increase in water level within the surf zone above mean still water level caused by the breaking action of waves. |
Wave Train |
A series of waves originating from the same fetch with similar wave characteristics. |
Wave transformation |
Change in wave energy due to the action of physical processes. |
Wave-cut platform |
A near horizontal layer of solid rock stretching seaward from the toe of a beach. |
Waverider Buoy |
A floating device used to measure water level variations caused by ocean waves. |
WFD |
Water Framework Directive |
Wind rose |
Diagram showing the long-term distribution of wind speed and direction. |
Wind Setup |
The increase in mean sea level caused by the "piling up" of water on the coastline by wind. |
Wind stress |
Tangential wind force on water surface. |
Wind Waves |
The waves initially formed by the action of wind blowing over the sea surface. |