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Glossary

Term Description
Water depth Distance between the seabed and the still-water level.
Water level Elevation of still-water level relative to some datum.
Wave caustic Point or line along which wave energy is focused by refraction.
Wave climate The seasonable and annual distribution of wave height, period and direction.
Wave direction Mean direction of wave energy propagation relative to true north.
Wave directional spectrum Distribution of wave energy as a function of wave frequency and direction.
Wave frequency The inverse of wave period.
Wave frequency spectrum Distribution of wave energy as a function of frequency.
Wave Height The vertical distance between a wave crest and the next trough.
Wave Length The distance between consecutive wave crests or wave troughs.
Wave Period The time taken for consecutive wave crests or wave troughs to pass a given point.
Wave Power The rate at which wave energy is transmitted in the direction of wave propagation. Normally expressed in kilowatts per metre of wave crest length.
Wave rose Diagram showing the long-term distribution of wave height and direction.
Wave Runup The vertical distance above mean water level reached by the uprush of water from waves across a beach or up a structure.
Wave Setup The increase in water level within the surf zone above mean still water level caused by the breaking action of waves.
Wave Train A series of waves originating from the same fetch with similar wave characteristics.
Wave transformation Change in wave energy due to the action of physical processes.
Wave-cut platform A near horizontal layer of solid rock stretching seaward from the toe of a beach.
Waverider Buoy A floating device used to measure water level variations caused by ocean waves.
WFD Water Framework Directive
Wind rose Diagram showing the long-term distribution of wind speed and direction.
Wind Setup The increase in mean sea level caused by the "piling up" of water on the coastline by wind.
Wind stress Tangential wind force on water surface.
Wind Waves The waves initially formed by the action of wind blowing over the sea surface.

Glossary index

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Last Modified on: 19 June 2011
Printed from the Estuary Guide on 26/08/2019 04:58:04